The Oil <br> Beneath the Oil

The Oil
Beneath the Oil

When carrier oils are mentioned, they’re often introduced in the context of essential oils. A base. Something to dilute with. A way to make essential oils safe for topical use. But that definition only captures a small part of what they actually are.

Carrier oils are foundational ingredients in their own right. They form the base of serums, balms, body oils and creams, and have been used for centuries across different cultures as primary skin treatments, long before essential oils were widely incorporated into modern formulations. They interact directly with the skin, influence hydration and barrier function, and determine how a product feels, absorbs and performs.

More Than a Base

Unlike essential oils, which are volatile and evaporate quickly, carrier oils are composed primarily of fatty acids. These fatty acids interact directly with the skin barrier, influencing hydration, permeability and overall skin feel.

This is why two blends using the exact same essential oils can feel completely different depending on the carrier oil beneath them.

A lightweight oil can leave the skin feeling dry within minutes.
A richer oil can sit on the surface, slowing absorption and extending contact time.
Some oils absorb almost instantly, while others create a protective layer that lingers. What sits underneath the essential oil changes the entire experience.

Skin Compatibility & Structure

One of the more interesting aspects of carrier oils is how closely some of them resemble the skin’s own natural oils.

Jojoba oil, for example, is technically a liquid wax rather than a true oil. Its structure is remarkably similar to human sebum, which allows it to absorb easily without disrupting the skin’s natural balance. This is why jojoba is often suitable across a wide range of skin types, from dry to more oil prone.

In contrast, oils such as sweet almond or apricot kernel are richer in oleic acid, giving them a softer, more nourishing feel. These tend to be well suited to dry or depleted skin, where additional lipid support is beneficial. Then there are oils like grapeseed, which are lighter and higher in linoleic acid, often preferred for quicker absorption and a more weightless finish.

Texture, Absorption & Finish

If you’ve ever wondered why some oils feel “dry” while others feel rich or even slightly heavy, it comes down to their fatty acid profile and molecular composition.

Fractionated coconut oil, for example, has had long chain fatty acids removed, resulting in a very stable, lightweight oil that absorbs fairly quickly and normally leaves less residue.

By comparison, more traditional or virgin oils tend to retain a fuller spectrum of compounds, including natural waxes and unsaponifiables. These can give the oil more body, more character, and sometimes a slower absorption profile. However neither is better, they simply serve different purposes.

Refinement vs Virgin Oils

Another layer that often goes unnoticed is how the oil has been processed. Refined oils are typically filtered and neutralised, resulting in a lighter colour, milder aroma, and more consistent texture. These are often preferred in formulations where neutrality and stability are important.

Virgin or unrefined oils, on the other hand, retain more of their natural compounds. This can include trace nutrients, antioxidants and plant specific characteristics that give the oil more depth, both in scent and performance.

A More Complete Way to Look at It

As you begin to understand carrier oils beyond their role in dilution, the way you approach them tends to shift.

They are not simply there to “carry” essential oils. They are what sits directly on the skin, influencing texture, absorption, hydration and overall performance, whether essential oils are present or not.

The same oil can be used on its own as a daily moisturiser, built into a balm, or used as the base of a more complex blend. Its structure determines how it behaves in each of those contexts.

In that sense, essential oils may shape the aroma of a product, but carrier oils define its function. And once you start paying attention to them in that way, formulation becomes far more intentional, not just in what you add, but in what you build upon.